Port conjures up agreeable visions of convivial winter evenings around the fireside and the culinary delights of the Festive Season. And so it should. Port is guaranteed to lift the spirits on the chilliest and greyest of winter evenings.
But Port is also the wine of fellowship and good cheer, stimulating good conversation and relaxed companionship at any time of year. And the seasons do not change the fact that Port is one of the most delicious and inspiring of wines, with a style to fit every occasion.
So why give up the civilised habit of enjoying a glass of Port as soon as the weather turns warm? Port is made for spring and summer just as much as for autumn and winter.
LO AND BEHOLD
In fact, in Portugal, thoughts turn to Port as soon as spring arrives. No Easter celebration is complete without a mellow, nutty Aged Tawny Port and a slice of Pão-de-Ló. Few matches are as heavenly as this traditional Portuguese sponge cake and a glass of Taylor’s 10 Year Old.
Pão de Ló and Taylor’s 10 Year Old
In fact, summer brings all kinds of opportunities to savour Port with desserts, such as a fruity glass of Taylor’s Late Bottled Vintage with a Summer Pudding, Eton Mess or Raspberry Pavlova. Or a chilled Taylor’s 20 Year Old Tawny with a creamy ice cream.
FRESH AS A TAWNY
And if chilled old tawny may sound a little surprising, let us explain. Nothing is better for warm weather drinking than a chilled glass of Taylor’s 10 or 20 Year Old.
The rich, mellow flavours can be enjoyed to the full but chilling makes the wine taste crisp, refreshing and moreish. At Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas, Adulcínia, the estate’s talented cook, always makes sure that there is a chilled glass of Taylor’s 20 Year Old to go with her signature crispy almond tart.
Adulcínia’s recipe is a well kept secret but there are many other wonderful summer recipes to match with a chilled tawny. Why not try it with hazelnut cheesecake or créme brûlée? And a summer cheeseboard is never quite the same without a glass of Port.
But a chilled Tawny really requires no accompaniment. One of the best moments to enjoy a glass is while relaxing after a leisurely lunch or sitting out on a long summer evening. This when there is the time to enjoy Port in all its magnificent richness.
CHIP AHOY
Should summer enjoyment of Port be confined to the end or after the meal? Far from it. In the early 1930s, Taylor’s partners, Dick and Stanley Yeatman, set out to create a new style of Port to be enjoyed as an aperitif. The result was the first dry white Port, made from classic white Port grapes, which they launched in 1934. They called it Chip Dry. To make it, they allowed fermentation to go on for longer before adding the fortifying spirit.
As a result, less sweetness remained in the wine, giving it an attractive dry character. Ageing in seasoned oak vats then contributed a seductive mellow nutty flavour, while retaining a fruity freshness and a vibrant finish.
Taylor’s Chip Dry is a stylish and sophisticated aperitif. It is available from Waitrose and selected independent wine merchants.
Dick and Stanley would have enjoyed Chip Dry on its own, chilled in a wine glass, accompanied by a plate of almonds and olives from the property’s ancient olive trees. This is still one of the best ways of enjoying Chip Dry, as many visitors to Vargellas will testify.
WHEN THE CHIPS ARE DOWNED
But when temperatures rise, something more thirst-quenching is required. Taylor’s Chip Dry is the base of one of the world’s great summer cocktails. A lighter, more sophisticated and original alternative to the conventional gin and tonic, it is the perfect summer aperitif. It is usually prepared in a highball glass although some aficionados prefer a balloon-shaped ‘copa’.
A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS
Fortunately, no feat of mixology is required. Simply place a few ice cubes in the glass, pour over the Chip Dry and then top up with tonic water. In summer, aim for about a third of Chip Dry to two thirds of tonic. The proportion of Chip Dry can be increased slightly for a richer flavour. Finally, add a twist of lemon peel or a sprig of mint. As we say in Portugal, saúde! Your very good health and enjoy the summer.
This special edition 50cl bottle of Taylor’s Chip Dry is available in branches of Majestic. Its label depicts the Valeira Gorge on the River Douro downstream from Quinta de Vargellas. The gorge is just visible from Vargellas, where Dick and Stanley Yeatman would have enjoyed their evening glass of Chip Dry.
